Author: Faine Greenwood

Learning to Dive – Tulamben

Learning to dive is deceptively easy, which is apparently a problem in some respects. Oodles of divers put through their paces in blocks of eight in a swimming pool and in a calm sea are awarded their dive certifications in a matter of three days. They are often then convinced they can drop into current […]

Learning to Dive, Or How I Realized It Doesn’t Actually Involve Math – Part One

  I was under the impression that scuba diving required mathematical skills. I have always had certain issues with mental mathematics (as diagnosed by highly-paid professionals) and whenever I contemplated taking up scuba diving, visions of me desperately counting backwards on my fingers while 100 feet deep in the wine-dark sea danced into my head. […]

The Eight Stages of Genocide and the Rohingya

The 8 Stages of Genocide Against Burma’s Rohingya Rohingya Muslim’s in Burma’s Rakhine state have now been ordered to adhere to a years-old two child policy by the government, in what authorities claim is an effort to defang ongoing tension between the Buddhist and Muslim communities.  In reality, this is ethnic cleansing. And it is ongoing in Burma […]

Self Defense: Faux Mugging, Paranoia, and Headlocks

I have lately been obsessed with the rather murky concept of self-defense, a side-effect of living for quite a while in multiple cities where a statistically not-insignificant number of people are interested in robbing you. I have lived in Washington DC and New Orleans, two of the more notoriously crime-ridden US cities, and then of […]

Things I Ate in Jakarta

As is usually the case when I travel, I ate some things in Jakarta. I regret not taking photographs of the kamping satay and the utterly bizarre but curiously awesome garlic bread, chocolate, and cheese satay the friendly owner pushed on me later in the evening. Nor did I photograph the rather tasty sushi rolls […]

Jakarta’s National Museum: Not Half as Musty As Anticipated, Either!

  I just read an article in Tempo, Indonesia’s major English-language political magazine, about the neglect most museums in the archipelago suffer from. This is perhaps true, but I was more impressed than I expected to be with Jakarta’s National Museum, a considerably more polished affair than the mothballed and distinctly chloroform-scented halls of other […]

Jakarta: Surprisingly Tolerable!

Jakarta must have one of the more loathsome reputations in Asia. When I mentioned I was thinking of going to Jakarta, most of my Asia-veteran friends reacted as if I’d cheerily informed them I was thinking of nipping over to Hades for a bit of sightseeing. “Why would you want to go there?” was the […]

Ruminations on Mantis Shrimp

I was inspired to ruminate on Mantis shrimp because I’m learning how to scuba dive in Indonesia, and these crustaceans are some of the most beloved denizens of Asian tropical reefs. Also, I’ve loved them for a long time, and the realization that SOON I WILL BE ABLE TO GLIDE AMONG THEM AS A MEMBER […]